by Thomas R. Webb (Vista Buddhist Temple)

I recently was able to visit Asia for the first time, due to certain favorable circumstances. I would like to share some of the observations made by this Buddhist pilgrim. While I oriented myself in South Korea, I was fortunate enough to know someone who lived there. He recommended that I visit a mountain sanctuary in Songnisan National Park. This park is known to be one of the finest scenic areas in Korea and "is really distinguished by Popchusa*, one of the largest and most magnificent temple sites in Korea ".** After landing in Seoul and getting a few hours sleep, I set out by train to Taejon, which is 150 Km south of Seoul, to meet my friend, his wife and two children, who would accompany us on our trek.

Though I found that a taxi ride across Seoul (a city of about 12 million people) during the long evening rush hour could be a harrowing experience, the train ride from Seoul to Taejon was a most pleasant experience. Once outside of smoggy Seoul the scenery changes rapidly to gardens and rice fields (which fill every suitable spot, no matter how small or odd shaped) that are surrounded by forest covered hills and mountains. The forests are surprising in their delicate beauty, the trees seem to be individually sculpted and manicured by nature, giving the appearance often seen in Asian paintings. I had previously thought that this was a stylistic feature of Asian art, but I now know that it is a true characteristic of the native forests, at least in Korea. After a relaxing 2 hour train ride I arrived in Taejon and met my friend.

Before starting our two hour trip by car to Popchusa we enjoyed a lunch at a Korean restaurant. As we entered we were greeted by a loud chorus of "welcome!" (in Korean of course) and removed our shoes and seated ourselves on the floor at low tables, Korean style. We enjoyed a hot noodle dish, which I managed to eat with chop sticks, despite the sympathetic offer of a fork from the proprietors after some initial fumbling on my part. I was surprised that no tea was available to drink during lunch, and that in fact Koreans do not drink tea at all! I did not see the potent Korean brew as a good alternative at the time, but was satisfied with mineral water which seems to be the most popular non-alcoholic beverage there.

In only a few minutes of driving we were out of the city and into the countryside and after an hour or so we were enjoying the sinuous mountain road to Popchusa. During the trip I saw road signs indicating the way to other temples. These are always marked, on both road signs and on maps, by the reverse swastika. This symbol is rarely used in the west due of course to its misappropriation by the Nazis. In Korea as any many other parts of Asia it is a symbol of deeply sacred significance.

We parked and walked about a kilometer to the temple site. The temple history is a long and interesting story. It was constructed in 553 C.E. and was the largest such site at the time (this was during the Shilla dynasty). It was partially destroyed several times during the many wars that followed through the next 1400 years or so, but was always rebuilt. The most striking thing that one sees as you enter Popchusa is the 100 foot tall, 160 ton brass statue of Maitreya Buddha, one of the largest in Korea. The intent of the builders is clear, we are small when we stand next to Maitreya. This statue is only eight years old, but stands as a symbol of the strength of modern Buddhism in Korea today. Below ground under the base of the statue is an alter surrounded by granite carved bas relief images summarizing many Buddhist stories, all beautifully done in classic style. The Korean word for temple is sa which is a homonym having several other meanings including the number four and the Korean word for death. It is interesting to note that at Popchusa groupings of four are avoided: There are three great Buddha figures seated in the ancient main two level pagoda near the five tiered central pagoda. Modern Koreans also avoid groupings of four. My hotel though 16 stories high, had no fourth floor.

There are many artifacts and natural wonders at Popchusa. The gigantic cast iron cauldron over 1200 years old is still in good condition. It was apparently suitable for cooking rice for three thousand resident monks that lived on the compound. Drinking water was of course important to the monks, (and to visitors to Korea in the sweltering 95° F July heat, which is coupled to a sauna-like humidity). In addition to the crystal clear stream that flows past the temple site, there are many springs nearby. One of these artesian springs produces a potent mineral water which percolates up into a huge carved granite tub. All visitors are able to enjoy the water by using ladles, which are rinsed in the overflow. The chemical analysis of the water is posted nearby, and though mostly written in Korean, the chemical symbols are legible. Chemically the water is high in calcium and very low in any undesirable elements. Another remarkable spring which is near the base of one of the thickly forested hills that surround the compound, is the most unusual spring that I have ever seen. Imagine a solid flawless granite boulder of about 100 metric tons or so. This boulder has no cracks or any noticable marks on it, except one: a smooth oval indentation from which pours cool clear pure water! In many places this would be considered miraculous, but at Popchusa it was only noticed by the passersby, who happened to be thirsty.

Yet all of these springs are not enough for the many thirsty Popchusa pilgrims. Here is an interesting example of Upaya (in Japanese Hoben, usually refered to in English as Skillful Means). Near the center of this auspicious mountain retreat is a fine modern fountain, done in classic style, from which sprouts many drinking spigots. Above each spigot is a carved Buddha figure, in front of which all whom drink need bow before.

 

-End of Part One-

 

* The 'o' in Popchusa is pronounced like the 'u' in up.

** Taken from the book 'Korea, Travel Survival Kit, Published by Lonely Planet books, PO box 617, Hawthorn,  Vic 3122, May 1995

 

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